So, coming fresh off a sewing debacle in which I had to remove a pocket to insert a zip on a pair of linen pants, I thought I was due for a sewing win. Since I need a maxi dress in my life, I chose simplicity 8137.
I have no idea why I thought a wrap dress would guarantee my success. So far, I have had some truly terrible luck with wrap dresses. They always seem a little bit off where my cleavage is concerned, but whatever, I decided to forge ahead anyway.
I immediately had some regrets when I saw that the only finished measurement provided for the garment was the bust. Normally I would measure the pattern pieces, but there is a princess seam as well as the wrap ties which would all have an effect on the finished measurements so… I guessed.
Normally I would chooses a size 12 when working with the big 4 pattern companies. I base this on Nancy Zieman’s formula in her book Fitting With Confidence . I have had a lot of success with this method. If I go by my upper bust measurement I end up with huge shoulders and armholes. I decided to go with a size 14 for no reason at all, grading out to 16 at the hip. Gotta accommodate the pear!
I sewed up a quick muslin, decided there was too much gaping at the bust, while also being way too low cut. That determination is coming from a person who has absolutely no modesty when it comes to cleavage. Usually I am a more = better type of gal in the at department. However, this kind of low cut could lead to a wardrobe malfunction and that is where I draw the line.
To rectify the situation I sewed a strip of fabric to the edge of the front pieces one inch wide at the wrap tapering up to zero at the shoulder seams. Looked pretty good, so I will be making a change to my pattern piece and then the cutting of the real fabric can begin. I decided that the gaping would probably be fixed with snaps, and the weight of the skirt, so I left it alone. Also, my dress form needs to be adjusted a bit smaller in the torso, not sure where yet.