This was exhausting. I am so glad this demon jacket is finally done. My mom asked me today if I was going to chill out on the next round if I made it. Absolutely not! I am however, grateful for a break. I screwed this jacket up so many times that I may have lost count. Lets get started!
I started with Vogue 8146, I wanted a pattern with a center seam on the sleeve, preferably a raglan sleeve, and something that did not require a lot of fitting. This pattern fits the bill perfectly.
I sewed up a straight size 12 in some scrap fabric to check the fit and it seemed to fit just fine. Then I had to decided how to make an insert fit into the sleeve and I thought that a box pleat would be the way to go. It would give me a way to hide the ends of the insert that would create the sleeve “stuffing”. I added 2″ to the top and bottom of the sleeve center seam and blended out to 1 1/2″ along the middle to allow the sleeve to open a bit and show the stuffing. I did not mark on the pattern where I wanted grommets to go because I wasn’t really sure about the spacing until I had a chance to put it on.
I made up a muslin for the sleeve I had designed and it looked pretty good. One thing I did not think about was how cropped this jacket was going to be. If I had remembered to, I would have lengthened it by a lot! Cropped isn’t really my favorite look, but its ok.
I used the aforementioned stolen silk boucle for my actual garment and I was a little surprised at how lightweight it was. Next time I make this jacket I will use something with a little more heft, I think some of my issues later were caused by the lightness of the fabric. I did underline it to keep the boucle from fraying and because I like to do that on jackets, it just took forever…. I seriously need a serger. I could have just zipped around the edges and saved about…. 6 hours?
When it was time to grommet the sleeves, I marked out one sleeve, placed grommets to check where I wanted them and then got started installing. First one turned out great. The next 5 were the most disastrous nonsense I have ever seen. The little aluminum form was destroyed. I thought I had done something wrong. I was totally right, I was using the apparatus incorrectly and had destroyed the damn thing, and the sleeve. So I sewed up the lining and called it a night. I was working on this between the hours of 1am and 6am so I couldn’t run to the store and get a new kit at this point, so I had to just move on and start again when the stores opened.
It was actually a lucky break, I realized I didn’t make the pleat deep enough because I forgot to include the seam allowance when I notched where the pleat went. I am glad I realized that before I started in on the next one! Had I not been forced to recut grommet disaster sleeve, I wouldn’t have noticed it on the other sleeve. I fixed the pleat on the old sleeve, recut the new sleeve and then grommeted away happily until I realized I cut two left sleeves….
At this point, I wanted to give up. Shutter the sewing room doors and never go back. But I got a nice pep talk from my boyfriend and correctly cut out a new sleeve and put more grommets on it and finished constructing the outer shell of the jacket. Oh wait, no I didn’t, I screwed up the collar as well and had to chop it off and recut it too!
It was a matter of poor interfacing choice. I didn’t use beefy enough stuff and it was really crazy and terrible. It occurred to me that I should take pictures of these ridiculous disasters as they come up…. Would you guys like that? I love seeing that stuff, keep it real!
I got the thing together and sewed in the lining, made the sleeve inserts which have snaps that correspond to little snaps I hid inside the box pleat so that I could make that stuffing interchangeable. Maybe switch up the color if I want to. Then I put the ribbons in and showed my boyfriend and he was like, “I thought you were making a beaded closure for the grommets?”
Well, I was but I bought 60$ worth of beading supplies and could not for the life of me figure out how to get the idea in my head into those beads! He said he was sad that I couldn’t figure out how to make my dream come true! Well, that’s one hell of a guilt trip so I sat down and figured it the hell out! Now I can secure the grommets with ribbons or jewels!!!
Ok, here are some finished pics. Boyfriend was trying to get out the door to go to the gym so I didn’t have time to fully swap out the ribbons for beaded bits so I just got them on the sleeve and took pics to show the option of having them.
Hopefully it was enough to make it to the next round!
Good luck to all of the other talented competitors!